After having built your basic bodice shell with darts, you might want to change the position of darts or to create others. This post shows you how to move the main darts and still have a pattern that is perfectly fitted to your measurements.
Take the scissors and your basic bust pattern to the waist with the two main darts. If you want to train yourself before the real cutting, draw a reduced pattern and do a try before.
Now draw a line for the new dart. You have 8 possibilities.
Cut out the main darts: the shoulder dart and the waist dart. Then cut on the new line and close the two main darts. The new dart will magically open by itself.
When you cut out, stop 3 mm before the nipple. The goal is to rotate the pattern piece and not to remove it. Attach the closing darts, round the waist line and observe a 3ccm flatness from the chest.
Here are some examples:
And you can go on with your combinations. There are plenty of possibilities.
The position and the number of darts contribute to your garnment style but beware of the amount of work: the darts must be impeccably executed in order to look pretty.
In my case, I try to avoid them as much as I can, especially for heavy fabrics, printed materials or bright colours.
Are you ready to play with the scissors now?