How to draft a coat lining

Since we enter the season of coats and lined jackets, I thought it would be useful to do a tutorial on how to draft a made-to-measure pattern for a coat lining. Before thinking of how to bag your coat lining , it is important to cut the lining properly.

So let’s take as an example the grey coat I was wearing this week.

On my pattern for the coat, I drew the facing and the hem in grey, these parts being made of the same fabric as the garment.

Doublure1

In order to obtain the pattern of the lining, you must remove the facing and the hem from the coat pattern AND add few centimetres as shown below:

On the seam line between the lining and the front facing, I added 1 cm for the lining.
I enlarged the back pattern with 2 from the center back cm to create the pleat.
I shortened the length of the lining with half of the hem width.
If the coat features shoulder pads, remove the pads thickness from the shoulder line (green).
I added 1 cm out from the sideseam and 0.5 cm up from the armhole point.

Doublure2

So for the wearing comfort, the lining is larger and shorter than the coat. Here is the pattern of the back and front lining.

Doublure3

For the sleeves, I applied the same principles:
Enlarge the armhole with 1 cm and bring up the armhole line with 0.5 cm
Shorten the hem of the lining with half of the jacket hem.

Doublure4Doublure5

The pattern of the lining is completed. You now need to sew it. But this is another story I am going to share with you very soon.

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7 thoughts on “How to draft a coat lining”

  1. I was looking for jacket lining good explanation and I found your site is very clear. I’m retired pattern maker for about 38 years and it’s long time since I sew a jacket.

    It’s really nice to refresh my knowledge.

    Thank you very much
    Pnina

  2. Very good explanation, I self draft a similar coat but without sleeves and I was stuck in the lining part because something went wrong when I start sewing. Well, now I could fix it. thanks very much 🙂

  3. If I have no pattern, just an old coat that I want to put the lining on, I still can’t figure out how to do it. It is a heavy wool coat with torn lining that needs to be replaced. How do I make a pattern for the lining, using the coat as a guide? Many thanks if you can help me.

    • hi Sandra, one idea could be to unpick the old lining and to copy it on the new fabric

  4. How much seam allowance do you add to facing and lining ? Is it just a standard allowance on both ?
    Thanks
    Becky

    • There is nothing standard, I use to add 2 to 3 cm of seam allowance, and you can always trim after

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