After the basic sleeve, the shirt sleeve, the kimono sleeve and the raglan sleeve, I will show you today the pattern of a sleeve usually found in casual wear like hoodies. Depending on the shape, this sleeve can recall the raglan sleeve, but with no seam in the center.
Here are a few steps to build the pattern of this sleeve, according to the ESMOD method, from the book “Becoming a pattern-drafter “.
Take your bodice basic pattern and put aside the front and the back. You need to balance the shoulders. To do this, draw a line parallel to the waist that passes through the shoulder of the back and another that passes through the shoulder of the front. Midway between these two lines, draw a third which will be your new shoulder height for the front and back.
- On your back pattern, draw your new shoulder line, parallel to the old one, and joining the line obtained in the previous point. By doing this, you have removed a few inches from the back neckline which you should add to the neckline of the front. You can now draw the new shoulder line, also joining it to the line obtained in point 13. It is now time to add ease to the final garment. There is no exact rule as it depends on the desired width. As far as I am concerned I added 5 cm in width, 10 cm in length, I extended the shoulder line by 7 cm and I lowered the armhole line by 7 cm. You need to draw a new armhole for the back, copy it as it is for the front, make sure the shoulders back and front coincide, as well as the side line.4. Draw a line parallel to the center front, tangent to the front armhole in point A. This point is located a little lower than the old front width line at the point where your armhole is the hollowest. Measure the length AB and transfer it on this line to set the point C.5. Measure the desired width for the sleeve and divide it by two. From point C, draw this distance, CD, which must be perpendicular to the center line of the sleeve. To ease the exercise, we will consider that the line of the center of the new sleeve extends the shoulder line. We will see later how to do if these two lines are distinct.
- Measure the desired length for the sleeve and trace it from point E to point F. Also measure the desired width of the wrist, divide by two and trace FG perpendicular to EF. Join the point G with the point C by a slightly curved line, respecting a flatness of 10cm from the point G. Retrace the AC line by slightly curving it
- Now you have your half kimono sleeve pattern that you will just recopy symmetrically from the middle line to get the full pattern.
- If you want a less wide sleeve, your point D’ will not forcefully fall on the shoulder extension line. The line of the middle of the sleeve thus forms an angle with the shoulder line. But it would always be necessary that CD’ be perpendicular to the line of the middle of the sleeve, EF’.
If you want to make a sleeve that looks like the raglan sleeve, just draw a curved line from point A and join the neckline in point H.
I hope I did not annoyed you too much. Drawings could help. It’s a fairly simple pattern to achieve after all.
And see you soon for new pattern-making adventures!