One of the biggest challenges for a seamstress is the man’s jacket. No false tone allowed, everything should just fall right. The hidden part or the interfacing is even more important than the exterior details, because it is precisely this internal structure that will determine the flattering and especially the durability of a jacket. Before starting this adventure, you should read technical sewing forums such as cutter and tailor to understand and admire the tailoring art.
I wanted to test my limits as seamstress apprentice and I thought a summer jacket would be easier and more appropriate for a first try than a winter one. For the complexity issue, I think I was wrong.
For interfacing, I preferred the easiest and most used method, ie fused interfacing. It is not at all the Savile Row’s method, as you can presume. It is not easy to choose the right fusible backing in the first place. In addition to that, small bubbles could appear in a couple of years due to multiple dry cleanings. But I did not want to put me too many obstacles from the start. And I certainly did not have 80 hours of manual labor required or the necessary fabric to build the traditional interfacing. So I ironed the fusible interfacing to both sides of the front and the upper back:
The jacket is made of linen with suede inserts for the collar, upper pockets and cuffs.
Buttonholes are handmade, I do not completely control the technique, but I understood the principle
Here is the jacket worn by the owner who was satisfied and request a third button, because the two current ones are a bit low. To be continued:
I can not say that I was feeling excited during this painstaking work that required about ten days but at least I understand now the errors to avoid. If I ever feel to sew a jacket again …