The man’s jacket

One of the biggest challenges for a seamstress is the man’s jacket. No false tone allowed, everything should just fall right. The hidden part or the interfacing is even more important than the exterior details, because it is precisely this internal structure that will determine the flattering and especially the durability of a jacket. Before starting this adventure, you should read technical sewing forums such as cutter and tailor to understand and admire the tailoring art.

I wanted to test my limits as seamstress apprentice and I thought a summer jacket would be easier and more appropriate for a first try than a winter one. For the complexity issue, I think I was wrong.

I used a Burda 8186 pattern which is a conventional man’s jacket pattern:
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I sewed a test jacket in canvas, because we wanted to change two things: the collar and the pockets.
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I modified the collar by increasing the lapels depth:
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For interfacing, I preferred the easiest and most used method, ie fused interfacing. It is not at all the Savile Row’s method, as you can presume. It is not easy to choose the right fusible backing in the first place. In addition to that, small bubbles could appear in a couple of years due to multiple dry cleanings. But I did not want to put me too many obstacles from the start. And I certainly did not have 80 hours of manual labor required or the necessary fabric to build the traditional interfacing. So I ironed the fusible interfacing to both sides of the front and the upper back:
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To give a bit of structure I built the chest pads and shoulder pads by following the bodice pattern. They are formed by two layers of rigid cotton and contain fleece at the shoulders:
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For the jacket sleeve, I did not meet particular problems, except the need to add a sleeve heading in fleece, and sew the shoulder pad so that no fold appears on the outside:
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Given the transparency of the fabric, I chose to line the jacket entirely.
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The jacket is made of linen with suede inserts for the collar, upper pockets and cuffs.
Buttonholes are handmade, I do not completely control the technique, but I understood the principle :-)

Here is the jacket worn by the owner who was satisfied and request a third button, because the two current ones are a bit low. To be continued:

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I can not say that I was feeling excited during this painstaking work that required about ten days but at least I understand now the errors to avoid. If I ever feel to sew a jacket again …

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3 thoughts on “The man’s jacket

  1. Thank You so much for take the time to share !!!

    Love your Blog On my Favourites just discovered not to long ago !

  2. I took up sewing 12 months ago because my son has a penchant for “different” but “stylish…did I mention he is 6’4″ and 170 lbs, haha…needless to say, his wardrobe is barely existent. This summer he asked for a smoking jacket for his boys weekend…I pulled this exact Burda pattern…but gave up quickly, it just seemed so complicated :/. Instead I used a vintage Mccall’s ladies jacket pattern with shawl collar (that’s how I found you :)) When I read you were not necessarily “excited” by this project, I understood! Congrats though, you finished, and finished well. Love your website, in both languages!

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