Leg of mutton, so elegantly put … In these times of cold and rain, this culinary reference could warm our hearts …
This sleeve is puffy in the shoulder and quite tight to the rest of the arm. Its pattern is traced from the fitted sleeve I presented last time (fig 1). I suggest you put a second pattern sheet under before you start (you’ll understand later).
You will draw an horizontal line between the elbow line and the armhole line at a distance that I let you choose yourself. The exercise is not complicated, from this line, the fluffy appearance begins, so you are free to go down or up to the shoulder. In Esmod’s book «Become a pattern drafter», the indication is quite precise: 25cm from the head of the sleeve. I would say that it rather depends on your length of arm. On this line and parallel to the middle of the sleeve FF’, draw two vertical lines EE’ and GG’ which will be midway between the middle of the sleeve and the previously drawn lines DD’ and HH ‘(fig 2).
Look for your scissors, the cutting job will begin. So you will cut along these 5 lines and spread the pieces of paper at equal distance of 5 cm between them. (Fig 3). Nothing complicated so far, isn’t it?
Now this is the funniest part because you have to draw the new sleeve from these pieces. As you have the 2nd sheet underneath, it’s easy: pin or tape the pieces spread on the sheet underneath and trace the new outline. Check that the bottom of the sleeve is respected, AB = AC, on one side and the other. Draw following the curve of the outer parts and raise the sleeve crown with 6 cm (Fig 4). The new armhole line should be parallel to the elbow line, otherwise correct. Fold the pattern so obtained on the middle of the sleeve and check that the two lines of sleeves match perfectly.
Personally I like this sleeve, very feminine and especially adapted to thin silhouettes because it adds volume. And you, what is your favorite sleeve?