We all see that ready-to-wear market is filled with jeans … We find jeans in all the forms and all the colors, for a price ranging from a few tens of euros to a few hundred, for a elusive difference if not the label … If the brand weighs heavily today, it is likely that it will not indefinitely remain the main element of differentiation … The conditions of manufacture will also be a selling point , especially since jeans are a big consumer of water and chemicals that pollute the rivers and the air.
One way to contribute to a more ecoresponsible production is to buy less but better, and, when we can not find the product that suits us, to make it by choosing the right colors, model and proportions.
I will show you here a simple way to draft the pattern for jeans, extracted from the ESMOD book, “Fashion Modeling” , Vol. 2.
In the last pattern post , I showed you how to build a pattern for made to measure sport pants which is the starting point for the pattern of jeans. Depending on the model you want, you may need to enlarge it. Imagine that it’s already done, we have a few small steps to reach the final pattern of jeans.
- Whether you have enlarged your pattern a lot or not at all, you end up with an AC curve between hips and waist. You need to diminish this hips curve towards the waist so as to create less sinuosities. These few centimeters added to the size, you must remove them by creating a dart of the same width. AB = A’B ‘
- You must now imagine the shape of the DF cut, called a “yoke”, passing through E. DF is slightly inclined, lower in F, but not too much either. F should not be on your buttocks, but above. Cut DE with scissors.
- You can now either cut the dart or bend it, close it and rotate it in E. The arms of the dart merge and open D in D ‘.
- Now just cut the two pieces: the trousers and the “yoke” and soften the angle B ‘.
- The following steps describe the construction of a fitted waistband that is usually used for jeans. Take your back and front patterns and drop the waist line 3.5 cm waist. Copy with translucent paper the upper part thus obtained, which is the pattern of your belt.
- To finalize the pattern, follow the instructions in the figure below. Drop the waist line, but less than in the previous step. By doing so, the pants and the belt sewn together will better fit your shape.
- Cut out on the new lines obtained and feel happy, the jean’s pattern is almost finished. You would have to add pockets and a fly, but this will be detailed in a future post.
It may cost you more time to make these jeans than to buy it, but are not you better in a garment that is made to your measurements?