When reviewing my pattern-making tutorials, I was surprised that I had not found the blouse yet. This essential element of the female wardrobe. I am talking about the fluid large shirt made of silk or muslin.
For the first part of this tutorial, I’ll talk about the bodice pattern and then I will continue with the shirt sleeve and some types of collars. I was inspired by the ESMOD book “Become a pattern drafter: women’s garments, Volume 1”
To draft the bodice, start with your basic bust pattern, without darts. (figure 1)
You must then make a few changes (Figure 2).
- From the shoulder line tips, draw an horizontal line perpendicular to the center front (in blue) and extend this line by 1.25 cm
- On the shoulder line, open the neckline by 0.7 cm and continue the shoulder line to the blue line
- On the center front line, lower the neckline by 1.5 cm and by 0.25 cm on the back
- Extend the cross-front and cross-back lines by 1.5 cm
- Parallel to the underarm line, enlarge by 2.5 cm and lower by 3.75 cm
- Enlarge the hip line by 2.25 cm
- Lower the center front by 4 cm and the center back by 6 cm and draw a smooth curve for a “large shirt style”.
Trace the bust outline by joining the new points. If you want to make the shirt more fitted, I recommend waist darts. Personally, if the shirt is made of silk, I prefer it large, without darts.
If you choose a button front, you need to add a button placket to the right of the center front line. The width of this placket depends on the diameter of the selected buttons, and it is about 2 cm. Then add the facing, its width is 1-2 cm longer than the width of the button placket (Figure 3).