How to draw the blouse pattern

When reviewing my pattern-making tutorials, I was surprised that I had not found the blouse yet. This essential element of the female wardrobe. I am talking about the fluid large shirt made of silk or muslin.

For the first part of this tutorial, I’ll talk about the bodice pattern and then I will continue with the shirt sleeve and some types of collars. I was inspired by the ESMOD book “Become a pattern drafter: women’s garments, Volume 1”

To draft the bodice, start with your basic bust pattern, without darts. (figure 1)
chemise1_EN

You must then make a few changes (Figure 2).

  • From the shoulder line tips, draw an horizontal line perpendicular to the center front (in blue) and extend this line by 1.25 cm
  • On the shoulder line, open the neckline by 0.7 cm and continue the shoulder line to the blue line
  • On the center front line, lower the neckline by 1.5 cm and by 0.25 cm on the back
  • Extend the cross-front and cross-back lines by 1.5 cm
  • Parallel to the underarm line, enlarge by 2.5 cm and lower by 3.75 cm
  • Enlarge the hip line by 2.25 cm
  • Lower the center front by 4 cm and the center back by 6 cm and draw a smooth curve for a “large shirt style”.

chemise2_EN

Trace the bust outline by joining the new points. If you want to make the shirt more fitted, I recommend waist darts. Personally, if the shirt is made of silk, I prefer it large, without darts.

If you choose a button front, you need to add a button placket to the right of the center front line. The width of this placket depends on the diameter of the selected buttons, and it is about 2 cm. Then add the facing, its width is 1-2 cm longer than the width of the button placket (Figure 3).

chemise3_EN

You have the shirt bodice now. You will also need the shirt sleeve and to choose the type of collar.
With a little hope and few bank holidays in May, these tutorials should not take too long.

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6 thoughts on “How to draw the blouse pattern

  1. This is great especially as a teacher myself I am refreshed, thank you!
    My website is under construction.

  2. Its an awesome explanation. However, im confused about one thing. I see that u r taking the length of the bust , waist of the back same to the front. But in a human body, there is a difference in length between front and back. From where r u taking the length of the bust and waist ?

  3. What i mean is, if you take the length of the back waist, it is almost 3 cm shorter than when u take it from the front. This is confusing me cz i see different patterns and in some patterns i see the back bodice shoulder is higher than the front. I know im missing some info in this area that is keeping me from going forward with pattern making

    • there is a difference between front and back, the front being longer. you can refer to my first post “drafting the bodice pattern”

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