If you read me regularly enough, you’ve probably noticed: the shawl collar is one of my favorites. Feminine, versatile, wrapping, it is ideal for coats. I give you here, step by step, the key to draw the pattern of your own shawl collar. You can add it to your bodice shell or to any other pattern that you do not like the collar.
Roll up your sleeves and grab your pencil, ruler, squares and tracing paper.
1. Expand your neckline with 1.5 to 2 cm on the shoulder line to the point A, on both back and front bodice patterns (Figure 1).
2. Draw the shirt placket 2 to 4 cm from the center front. The width of the shirt placket depends on the size of your buttons. Decide the depth of your neckline, the point V, and trace AV (Figure 2).
3. Extend AV with AB = half-length back neckline (measure the extended backline, huh). Draw the stand of the collar BC = 3 cm, parallel to the shoulder line and join A and C (Figure 3).
4. From point C, draw CD = 6 cm in a right angle with AC. This being the fall of the collar (figure 4).
5. Draw the collar lapel between the point V and the shoulder line. Here, you can vary the shapes and widths. If you managed to survive so far, it would be a shame to restrain your imaginatrion (Figure 5).
6. Fold the paper on the AV line and copy the lapel. You will notice at this point the interest of transparent tracing paper (Figure 6).
7. Unfold your paper, extend the lapel to point D at a right angle (Figure 7). You might need to lengthen or shorten CD.
8. Round the angles in point V. Extend the line VB to CD and mark this point as W. Join V to W by a curved line which passes more or less close to A depending on the fabric thickness. VW is the roll line of the collar. Your front bust pattern is now done (Figure 8).
9. From the shoulder line, draw a parallel line with VW and the shirt placket line. The width of your facing must be wider than the width of your shirt placket with at least 2 cm. Copy the facing pattern (Figure 9).
Place the notches in the points A, V and W and add 1 cm of seam allowance to finished patterns.
I think I have enough stuff here for geometry fans. For you, I have compiled two books “Flat Cutting: Volume 1” of T.Gilewska and “Sewing: make you own patterns” of Jo Barnfield and Andrew Richards.
Soon I will do a tutorial on how to sew and apply this type of collar.