How to adjust trousers, part 3

And here we are at the third and final episode of the pants series. You might wonder why I bother to write all these tutorials when stretch fabrics and jeans have been invading our daily lives … precisely because when we master sewing, we have the privilege to create classic outfits and the luxury to wear well fitted pants.

If you have strong legs, your pants made with a standard pattern might tight on thighs and pull the seams forward (Figure 1).

Panta1

If you already have sewn your pants, release the side seams and the inner seams.
If you made a pair of test trousers (I cannot congratulate you more), cut your front pants from waist to knee and pin the slot edges on additional fabric strips (Figure 2).

Panta2

If you overeat foie gras and chocolate during the holidays or if fries and beer are your daily menu, you might find difficult to close your pants and the belt seam might pull down (Figure 3).

Panta3

Either you fire with salad and green vegetables, or you accept your body and proceed as follows:

On your already sewn pants, all you can do is to release the side seams at the belly.
On your test pants, make a vertical cut on the front from the waist to the knee and an horizontal cut at 15 cm below the waist from one side seam to another. Add the necessary breadth and pin the slot edges on additional fabric strips (Figure 4).

Panta4

If you still have problems with your pants, read the first and the second part of this series, and if the problem persists ask a friend with a fresh eye to check the pants fitting. Because of too much reading about pants problems you may see pleats all around.

These tutorials have been inspired by the book “Burda, a practical sewing guide” published in 2005 by Fleurus that I simplified and redesigned for you. It was my gift for you for the New Year (the tutorials, not the book).

So, will 2014 be the year of trousers for you?

facebooktwittergoogle_pluspinteresttumblr

8 thoughts on “How to adjust trousers, part 3

  1. Thank you so much for the generous gift of your knowledge and time! I have been reading your tutorials on fitting trousers with much delight! I am in the process of fitting a test pattern, I took your advice and made a test pair out of fabric scraps. Thank you again!!!

    • Hi Tatiana, thank you for reading me, I hope your trousers will fit you perfectly, if you have any questions, please ask

  2. This is the most logical and understandable pant fitting tutorial I’ve read, and I’ve read a lot, but still not had the confidence to make them. I think I might get myself some cheap fabric this weekend and have a go making a test pair. I’ll definitely be booking marking all 3. Thank you

    • well, pants are never easy, the test pair is the less frustrating option. Thank you for your visit and hope your pants will fit you perfectly

  3. This is amazing information. I have sewn for many years but recently have begun to sew clothing (mainly trousers) for my grandson. He has some sensitivities to the way things feel so can’t wear anything tight to his skin. He also has problems with his fine and gross motor skills and cannot do buttons or zippers. He is also a giant of a child. He is very tall for his age and just big all over! It was so hard to find suitable trousers for him, especially now that he is out of children’s sizes. I found a pair in the store that fit when he was able to wear children’s size still. When he grew bigger, I took that pattern and made it a bit bigger and made trousers for him. This has gone on for several years now. But this year I cannot seem to make my pattern fit him anymore. The pants pull down in the back whenever he sits down. I don’t have enough experience in pattern making to know what I need to do to correct this problem. I think I have gained some ideas from your tutorials. I will try to reshape the behind and also reshape the crotch and thighs in the way you have shown. Thank you SO much for sharing your knowledge so freely. C’est tres gentil et bien organisé! Merci mille fois!

    • Thank you Gail for your kind message. Indeed, from what you described, you might need to curve even more the back center line. Good luck with the test trousers

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>