Having fitted pants, which perfectly falls down without pleats, is by far a great achievement in your sewing life. Whether you start with a homemade pattern or a commercial one, you might have to make some adjustments when trying on your pants.
First put on your pants with fitted shoes and ask a friend to check how the pants are falling in the back.
Some adjustments can be made directly on already sewn pants, others require having built test trousers before. If you are never satisfied with pants found in stores, I suggest you to do a pair of test trousers that you will keep as a basis for future pants.
First and foremost, here’s a picture to illustrate the most often used terms (Figure 1)
- mid back seam (pink)
- side seams (blue)
- legs internal back seams (green)
- the belt seam (orange)
Annoying situations can occur during the fittings. Here is how to fix it:
1. Slanting folds appear under the buttocks (Figure 2). You need to curve the pants crotch.
On your sewn pants, pin the excess fabric to form an horizontal fold on one leg (Figure 3).
Unseam the mid back seam. Slide the two legs into each other, right sides facing, the folded leg over the unfolded leg. Pin the legs together, gently pulling up the excess length on the unfolded leg (Figure 4).
Mark with pins the original mid-back seam of the folded leg on the other leg (Figure 5). Baste stitch this line on the unfolded leg only (Figure 5).
Remove all pins and sew the two legs along this new mid-back seam, re-cut the seam (Figure 6).
2. The pants are too tight on the buttocks, the belt goes down in the back and side seams are pulled back (Figure 7). You need to add fullness on behind.
If trousers are already sewn, you can add wideness on the side seams or on the legs internal back seams.
If you made test trousers, cut them where your behind is the strongest, vertically from the belt to the knee and horizontally from one side seam to another.
Pin the slot edges on additional fabric strips (Figure 8).
3. The trousers crotch is too tight (Figure 9).
If trousers are already sewn, give extra length on legs internal back seams and curve the crotch line. Try them on before cutting the excess fabric.
If you made test trousers, cut them crosswise from one side seam to another, add extra fabric strips and pin the slot edges on fabric strips (Figure 10). If necessary, give more comfort on legs internal back seams.