The pattern of the back-seamed sleeve

In the series of made to measure patterns, I would like to introduce a type of sleeve that is often used for coats or trench coats and it is not very complicated to achieve. This is the back-seamed sleeve which is articulated and fitted thanks to an elbow line seam.

Before you get to work, make sure you have the following measurements: armhole height and armhole length. If you do not know how to get them, go back to the post “the pattern for a made to measure sleeve” to find explanations.

So let’s start to draw the frame:
1) Draw a line AD parallel to the straight line. AD = length of the sleeve
2) Perpendicular to AD, draw a line EF = (7/10 of the armhole length) / 2
3) Draw the rectangle EFF’E ‘as in figure 1, with AE = DE’ and AF = DF’
4) Place AB = armhole height – 1 / 8th of this measurement, draw GK parallel to EF
5) Place AC = elbow length and draw HN parallel to EF

Let’s build the sleeve cap.
1) On EE’, place I such that EI = 1/3 of EG
2) On FF ‘, place J such that FJ = ½ of FK
3) On the one side and the other of B, place BB’= 1.5 cm and BB”= 1 cm
4) Place II’= 2 cm, parallel to EF
5) Draw IAJB’B”I’ in a curve

Let’s continue with the back seam.
1) Place HH’= 1 cm and E’L = 5 cm
2) Extend HL to L’ so that the L’D forms a straight angle in L’.
3) Extend L’D in M to get L’M = ½ desired width of the sleeve. M can be in or out of the frame
4) Place G’and G” on one side and the other of G such that G’G = GG”= 1 cm.
5) Draw IG”H and I’G’H’ in a curve and H’L in a straight line.
6) Check that IG”HL’= I’G’H’L’

Finish with the full pattern of the sleeve.
1) Fold on the JM line and mirror I’H’L’ and I’B’B”J
2) Retrace the bottom of the sleeve L’M by softening the angle with a French curve.

Your pattern finished, do not forget to place the mounting notches on the cap of the sleeve and at the elbow and to add the values of sewing.

Feel free to share your experience with this pattern from Esmod’s book “Become a pattern drafter, volume 2”. I found it perfectly suited to my last coat that I will try to show the pictures soon.

In the meantime, have a great holiday season and make a lot of sewing projects for 2019.

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